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1831

Mexican Avocado Sauce from 1831 — De aguacate

An authentic, rustic avocado sauce documented in 'El cocinero mexicano' (1831), an early cookbook published in independent Mexico. Peeled ripe avocado is ground with green chili, thinned with a little water, and salted only at the moment of serving to prevent darkening.

AI-generated recreation image of 1831 Mexican avocado sauce (De aguacate) after El cocinero mexicano: freshly mashed pale-green avocado sauce with finely chopped green chili in a rustic ceramic bowl

MODERN RECREATION

Modern Adaptation Proposal

Ingredient quantities, cooking times, and tools are proposed for modern home cooking. They are not measurements from the historical source.

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Sanitation & Washing: As an unheated raw preparation, sanitation is critical. Wash the outer skins of the avocado, green chili, and onion thoroughly under clean running water before cutting to prevent transferring surface dirt and bacteria to the edible flesh (do not use soap or detergents on produce). Use thoroughly cleaned hands, knife, cutting board, and mortar or bowl, keeping strictly separate from raw meat or seafood to avoid cross-contamination.
  2. Chili Preparation: To prevent irritation to skin, eyes, and mucous membranes from capsaicin, wearing gloves is recommended. Cut lengthwise, remove seeds, and finely mince. After handling chilis, wash hands immediately with soap and avoid touching your eyes or face. Leave raw for crisp pungent heat, or lightly roast in a dry skillet until slightly blistered for a mellow roasted flavor.
  3. Avocado Preparation: Rest the avocado firmly on a stable cutting board and slice lengthwise around the pit; twist the halves to separate. To prevent serious knife cuts ('avocado-hand' injuries), never strike the pit with a knife blade while holding the avocado in your palm; always keep it on the board and scoop the pit out safely with a spoon. Scoop out 200 g of flesh into a mortar or bowl.
  4. Grinding & Diluting: Using a mortar (such as a molcajete with a pestle) or a fork, grind the avocado flesh together with the minced chili into a cohesive rustic puree. Gradually stir in 10–20 mL of water to dilute the mixture into a smooth, spoonable sauce consistency.
  5. Optional Onion Preparation: If desired, finely chop 15 g of white onion and place it in a separate small dish to serve alongside for diners who prefer onion.
  6. Finishing, Serving & Storage: Following the 1831 instructions to prevent browning, stir in 1 g of salt only immediately before bringing the sauce to the table, mixing briskly and serving at once. Individuals with avocado allergies or cross-reactivity from latex-fruit syndrome should avoid consumption. As an unheated raw preparation, avoid prolonged standing at room temperature and consume promptly. If storing leftovers, press plastic wrap directly onto the surface in an airtight container, refrigerate at 4°C or below, and consume the same day (this is an untested home adaptation; shelf-life and storage have not been empirically verified).

HISTORICAL RECORD

Historical Sources and Evidence

These sources provide historical context. They do not necessarily support the quantities or cooking times in the modern adaptation.

Statements supported by sources

  • Recipe 26 'De aguacate' on printed page 137 of Volume 1 of 'El cocinero mexicano' (1831) explicitly directs: peel avocados and grind them with green chili, raw or roasted as desired; dilute with a little water; do not add salt until brought to the table so that it does not turn black; and set aside a little chopped onion for those who like it that way.

  • No citrus juice (lime/lemon), tomato, cilantro, oil, vinegar, or garlic appears in the original 1831 text.

Inference and interpretation

  • In 1831 central Mexico, native thin-skinned varieties (such as Persea americana var. drymifolia lines) were likely common rather than the modern 20th-century Hass cultivar, though Recipe 26 itself specifies no particular variety.
  • While avocados were commonly ground in volcanic stone molcajetes or metates in period Mexican kitchens, the original text does not prescribe a specific utensil.
  • The 1831 text directs holding back salt until table service specifically 'so that it does not turn black' (para que no se ponga negra). In modern food science, avocado browning is understood as an enzymatic reaction between polyphenol oxidase (PPO) and atmospheric oxygen, and the anti-browning efficacy of salt timing has not been empirically verified in this recipe, yet it reflects an intriguing period culinary belief.
  • The 1831 date marks the publication of an early post-independence cookbook, representing an early printed record within the long history of Mexican avocado dishes (āhuacamolli); it should not be claimed as an invention date, an unbroken direct Aztec transmission, or the 'oldest guacamole'.

Modern adjustments

  • Designed for home kitchens using 200 g ripe Hass avocado, 1–3 g fresh green chili, 10–20 mL water, and 1 g salt, served with 15 g optional chopped white onion (approx. 2–3 servings, untested proposal).
  • Common additions in modern guacamole such as lime or lemon juice, tomatoes, cilantro, oil, and garlic are intentionally omitted because they are not documented in this 1831 Recipe 26.
  • Onion is kept as an optional side dish per the original text, and salting occurs right before table presentation.
  • Comprehensive food safety measures are established: thorough washing of produce skins under running water without soap (FDA produce guidelines), preventing cross-contamination, safe spoon-pitting to prevent avocado-hand injuries, chili handling precautions, and latex-fruit allergy awareness.
  • Because this is an unheated raw dish, consume promptly and avoid prolonged room-temperature holding. Store any leftovers with wrap pressed to the surface at 4°C or below for same-day consumption (untested proposal with no shelf-life testing).

Sources and references

  1. El cocinero mexicano (De aguacate, p. 137)Open source: https://digital.utsa.edu/digital/collection/p15125coll10/id/17251

    Consulted Recipe 26 'De aguacate' on printed page 137 of Volume 1 of 'El cocinero mexicano' published in Mexico City in 1831 (University of Texas at San Antonio Libraries Special Collections, Diana Kennedy Collection, call number TX716 .M4 C615 1831). The high-resolution facsimile opening (Leaf ID 17251, image txsau_tx716-m4-c615-1831_081, recto p. 137) was directly examined in the UTSA Digital Collections. The text instructs peeling and grinding avocados with raw or roasted green chili, diluting with a little water, withholding salt until serving so it does not turn black, and preparing chopped onion for those who prefer it. The duplication observed in secondary blog posts does not exist in the 1831 original print edition.

  2. Selecting and Serving Produce SafelyOpen source: https://www.fda.gov/food/buy-store-serve-safe-food/selecting-and-serving-produce-safely

    Official FDA consumer guidance on produce safety. Directs washing raw produce thoroughly under clean running water before cutting to prevent transferring bacteria from the skin to the edible interior, avoiding soaps or detergents on food, and preventing cross-contamination from raw meats and seafood.

  3. Latex AllergyOpen source: https://www.aaaai.org/tools-for-the-public/conditions-library/allergies/latex-allergy

    Clinical guidance from the AAAAI on latex allergy and latex-fruit syndrome, outlining cross-reactivity between natural rubber latex and plant proteins in fruits such as avocado, banana, chestnut, and kiwi.

About this site

About our dish images
Image credits and sources

© History Meshi (AI-generated recreation image / AIによる再現イメージ)

Source: Modern adaptation concept based on El cocinero mexicano (1831, Vol. 1, p. 137, Recipe 26 'De aguacate') / 『El cocinero mexicano』(1831年)に基づく再現イメージ

License: Original site asset (not an actual cooking or historical source photograph / 実際の調理・史料写真ではありません)